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Seeing all of
the work I had already completed this week gave me the inspiration
to do even more. Funny how that happens. While I had the
free time available, I though it best to put it to good
use and get the engine closer to that magical moment of
being able to run it for the first time.
Having done all
the plumbing for the combustor, it was time to locate and
install the spark plug. Spark plugs can be finicky things
in these engines and trying to find just the right location
to mount one can be frustrating to say the least. In one
spot, it may not light the engine. In another spot, it may
light but burn the electrode off of the plug. There is a
balancing act that occurs to find the spot where ignition
occurs
easily, and the plug is out of harms way.

Spark plug mounting plate
My first step
in installing the plug will be to fabricate a suitable mounting
plate in which to thread the plug. I had a large piece of
steel plate which had lived a previous life as a combustor
end cap I was using for testing another engine. This material
was suitable, so I started out by drilling and threading
the hole in the plate to mount the spark plug. After threading
the hole, I tightened the plug down on the plate to make
sure that the threads would be strong enough to keep the
plug in place.

Chucking up the part for turning
I cut the center
out of the plate so that I could turn it to the proper size
on the lathe. To mount the piece in the stock I first tried
to use the socket for the spark plug as a holder, but soon
realized that there would be way too much wobble. After
all, I am still pretty new to the whole machining of parts
thing. I quickly realized the error of my ways and saw that
I could just attach the whole assembly to the lathe chuck
using nothing more than the sparkplug itself.

Turning the part
It becomes clearly
visible in the photograph above that this was a much better
solution to hold the part in the lathe chuck. Sometimes,
the simplest solutions are the best. With the part firmly
in the chuck I turned down the plate to match the diameter
of a small pipe I would be attaching to the plate. The pipe
will allow me to recess the spark plug mount inside of the
combustor which you will see as the part progresses.

Turning a step
Once the part
was turned down to the proper size, I created a stepped
lip on the face of the part so that it could mate with the
tube it would be welded to. This would assure a nice tight
seal with good weld penetration.

Fitting the tube
By making gradual
passes, I soon had the step turned down far enough to accommodate
the tube. It is a tight fit and will hold the tube snugly
on its own. The lathe, which is also a very new addition
to my shop, is an indispensable tool just like the mill.
It truly amazes me how I ever survived without it. The quality
of parts that you can produce is just so much better, even
with these mini machine tools.

Welding the assembly
Once the parts
were all turned to the proper diameter, I used the mig to
weld the mounting plate firmly inside of the tube. Although
the weld bead looks large in this photograph, it is actually
that the part is just smaller than what you see here.

Fully welded
Once I had a
good weld bead all the way around the mounting plate, I
allowed the part to cool before attaching it to the lathe
again. By turning down the outside of the tube for the full
length, I could clean up the diameter of the entire assembly
as well as remove any excess weld bead.

The finished mount
After lathe turning
the assembly, the whole diameter was nice and even. With
the part mounted in a vise, you can see how much of the
plug will be inside of the combustor. By taking measurements
of the threads on the spark plug, I was able to remove most
of the threaded part in the lathe and leave enough to still
thread into the mount. Removing the threads gave me a spark
plug with a long center electrode which could arc to the
side of the flame tube and give a much bigger spark.

Drilling the combustor
Even though spark
plug placement is very important, most of it boils down
to trial and error. By taking a few measurements and combining
them with best guess estimates, I came up with a mounting
location that would place the plug between the primary and
secondary holes of the flame tube. I laid out the hole on
the outside of the combustor housing and used a hole saw
to make the opening for the spark plug mount.

Flame tube
I allowed the
center drill of the hole saw to penetrate right into the
side of the flame tube and make a pilot hole. This hole
would be the exact location that the spark plug would pass
through to the inside of the flame tube and allow ignition.
I then enlarged the flame tube hole just big enough for
the electrode end of the plug to pass through. You can see
the bottom of the plug just peeking into the flame tube
in the picture above.

Welding the recessed mount
With the recessed
plug mount located and the flame tube drilled out, I tack
welded the mount into place. After my alignment checks showed
that the plug had not shifted due to the metal warping from
the welding heat, I finished the weld. I left the plug in
the mount while welding to keep the threads from becoming
damaged.

Finishing off the mount
With welding
completed, I used a grinding wheel to bring the edges of
the mount flush with the outside of the combustor housing.
I then turned to the trusty flap disc on the grinder and
polished things to look nice and shiny. The entire operation
was a success, and the mount looks really good. The top
of the plug barely protrudes from the housing and should
be nice and safe in its new home.
If this mounting
arrangement looks familiar to some viewers, it is because
it is very similar to the one used by Don G. at www.rcdon.com
for his GR-7 engine. I liked the look of it so much that
I decided to use the same approach and hope that he doesn't
mind.

Ignition system
Sadly, when preparing
the combustor for atmospheric testing I managed to burn
out my ignition unit. This ignition was built using the
parts from a "stun gun" and seemed to work rather
well. Russ from www.badbros.net
found out about the ignition and had this to say..
"Electronics
only work because of the Magic Genie in the little chips
and wires. When you mess up and let out the smoke, that
is the Genie getting out. Things just never work the same
once the Genie gets out!"
I will have to
build a new ignition unit later, and find another means
of igniting the combustor for atmospheric testing.

Fuel system for tests
It is a shame
that my ignition burned out, because I already had the fuel
system ready to go for testing. I am simply going to draw
fuel from the gas can and run it through a bypass valve
setup to regulate pressure to the nozzles. I am using one
of my trusty ShurFlo pumps for the fuel during the tests.

Combustor on test stand
The combustor
is already on a test stand and ready to go, but it goes
back to the whole issue of an ignition source. As soon as
I find another way to get a hot spark to the plug I will
be firing this thing up and getting some good pictures and
video.
Keep checking
in, as I should be able to make an atmospheric test run
sometime very soon. Thanks for stopping by, and if you appreciate
what we are doing, please contact me about making a donation
to the site! Potential sponsors are always welcome!
Gary Richards
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